Jurgen Grotz, London, recently joined me for a six-day wilderness float. Here’s how he described the experience afterwards:
“I had nothing else to do. It’s not raining, yet…”
The Oarsman:
Henri Kiviniemi advertises multi-day wilderness, river float and fly fishing expeditions.
I have just returned from a six-day expedition with him and I now appreciate that each of the following words have to be taken literally.
Wilderness:
Most of the 50 km stretch of the Ivalo river we traveled is a protected wilderness. No roads,no electricity pylons, no phone signal, and of course no shops to replace the knife I lost. We saw eagles and the odd reindeer but no sign of the wolves or bears that also live in this wilderness. They stay away from humans! We tracked up a hill for the solar eclipse. It was just a very short hike but also a reminder what wilderness feels like. You won’t know it till you’ve done it!
River float:
We spent a minimum of four hours per day on the boat. Henri built a unique craft which can handle the plentiful rapids, carry all equipment and enable you to fish from. It is a very comfortable way to travel where no road can take you. There are some impressive and exciting rapids but by and large the boat is a sturdy and sedate means of travel. Henri does the rowing!
Fly fishing:
I am at best a struggling amateur but I managed to land plenty of grayling, a river trout and one of the elusive migratory trout. I had to adjust my usual style and change fly lines and flies, but with Henri’s help I managed at least the basics I needed to fish this river. During the day it is all streamers, either from the boat or wading from shore during brief rests. I must admit I probably enjoyed returning to my trusted dry flies and nymphs and a three weight in the evenings and mornings, wading out from camp a bit, before we set off again. If it was Henri’s decision you would chase migratory trout till you drop, but he patiently endures softer fishermen like me who quite enjoy watching grayling rise in the still slack waters. Having said that, if you don’t like fly fishing, then this is not the trip for you. Everything else, floating and wilderness, only serve this one purpose, to cast a fly to where it catches your next fish!
Now then, Expedition!:
This is not a luxury trip. I am in my sixties and I try to avoid crawling into a tent, sleeping on the ground, and when nature calls do as the bears do. We had two cold nights with -3C and with water temperature falling rapidly I decided against the planned and cleansing swims in the river. Also I was glad I brought my wading stick not just to cross the river but also to handle some of the harsh terrain. Good news, you definitely won’t go hungry. Henri magics up some filling foods on the camp fire, with just a small kettle, small pot and a pan. The winner was sautéed reindeer with mashed potato and lingonberries jam. But, over the days, Henri would not argue I think, food is very basic. Personal tip, take a few special treats. It cannot be too much because of the weight, but I had good English teabags and fresh milk, orange concentrate for my daily water bottle, a bag of pipe tobacco and local viina, firewater, to make an alcoholic coffee to go with the pipe by the campfire in the evening. Top tip, pick some fresh juniper berries and add them to the bottle of viina. I accept though that might not be everyone’s taste, but you never smelled better gin! Never mind the taste, the coffee and sugar take care of that. In any case, take this word, expedition, seriously. There are some maintained sites with a wood shed and a self composting outhouse, but there are no campsites with shower and lawns to pitch a house size tent. It’s expedition camping and you have to be able to handle yourself and your kit! You should also be a bit agile, I must say, not my strength and some of my climbing on or off the boat lacked any dignity.
Multi-day wilderness river float and fly fishing expeditions for migratory trout in Lapland, is a unique experience. Literally! Henri is the only one offering it! Henri is the expert guide for this, he is very patient, and if you ask he might even have some salted air dried reindeer heart as a special treat, before your camp ‘jalokahvi’.
Dr Jurgen Grotz, London